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Catching a wave at Agate Beach |
After I ruptured my plantar fascia back in June, the doctor put me in a cast for an indefinite period of time and told me NOT to run. So what is a running junkie like myself who has come to rely on runs to rejuvenate, de-stress, see beautiful sights, connect with cool people and stay in shape, supposed to do? Why surf, of course!
Talk about being down in the dumps. This was not a happy time for me. My husband felt so sorry for me and set out with great dedication, to do what he could to make this time period easier for me. I love you Stevie! Steve found out that the City of Eugene was offering an all-women's surf camp in July and encouraged me to go for it. I immediately signed up and counted down the days until surf camp.
That first day we met early, packed up the recreation bus with our camping gear and surfboards, drove to Newport, rented wetsuits and spent the afternoon surfing at a beginner break in Otter Rock. We would camp at nearby Beverly Beach the next two nights. Our amazing leaders made breakfast each morning and campfires each evening. They provided gave us group lessons, worked with us one-on-one and cheered us. They had this camp down to a science. We had lunch on the beach and dinners at restaurants in town. It was a truly amazing experience being with this group of women.
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Surf Camp! |
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Great people and great place to rent surf equipment and get your swell questions answered |
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Neoprene is my new best friend. It keeps me warm while surfing in Oregon |
That weekend, I fell in love with surfing. A calm, contentedness that I had been missing since my injury washed over me. I was okay. I couldn't run, but I could surf! Breathing in that sea air, tasting the sea salt on my lips, bobbing around on the swell and best of all feeling the surge of a wave carry me from sea to shore was so good for my soul. How had I lived my 38 years without this amazing sport in my life? I was hooked! Since then I find myself checking surfing conditions on a daily or at least weekly basis. I have my own wetsuit, neoprene gloves and booties and even my own surfboard! When I can't surf, I read about it in magazines and books or watch movies about it.
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Surfing has become a favorite thing to do as a family. |
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Surf's up dudes! Otter Rock break in Newport, Oregon |
In November I was able to really start running again. Those three months of surfing made my four-and-a-half-months without running bearable. It lifted my spirits and provided that athletic challenge that I have come to know and love so well. For the last two months, I've been thoroughly enjoying running and am so thankful to be able to do this simple activity that I once took for granted. I'm jonesing for the ocean and the waves though! For the last two months I've been checking the surf report and finding that the waves are way too big for my surfing ability. Thank goodness I've had running to carry me through this surfing dry spell. :-)
Stay stoked!
Oh wow, I live here in Eugene and somehow missed out on an all-women's surf camp? That sounds awesomely fun. I love your pics. If they're doing it next year I just might have to sign up.
ReplyDeleteInteresting read, thanks for sharing
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